Optimization of emollient nanoemulsions of seed oil of passiflora edulis var. edulis
Passiflora edulis var. edulis is a plant of commercial interest because of it fruits. The seeds, a by-product in the food industry, can be a source of oil for cosmetic, pharmaceutical and food industries. The aims of a recent study were to optimize the ultrasonic-assisted emulsification conditions for o/w nanoemulsions and to evaluate the emollient activity of the seed oil. The optimum emulsification conditions were established, using the response surface methodology with a Box-Behnken design (BBD). The emollient activity of seed oil of P. edulis var. edulis was evaluated with healthy volunteers using a cutometer for skin moisture and viscoelasticity measurements.
The seed oil of P. edulis var. edulis has a high linoleic acid content, similar to that of oils of other Passiflora species. A combination of 70.65% water, oil:surfactant ratio of 5:4, ultrasonic power of 85.34W and irradiation time of 5.96 min was selected as the optimum emulsification conditions, with response values of 130, 33 nm, 0.202, −30.4 mV and 5.44 for droplet size, POI, ζ potential and p-anisidine value, respectively. Based on the above, it was concluded that the method of ultrasound-assisted preparation of nanoemulsions enables systems to be obtained with small droplets and low PDI by the incidence that has the power and irradiation time on these response variables. In addition, the optimized formulation is stable at 4 °C and 20 °C for 21 days. Finally, the in vivo efficacy tests demonstrated that the seed oil of P. edulis var. edulis, as well as its nanoemulsion, is present for the emollient activity by increasing moisture, hydration and skin elasticity after topical application.
The study has been published in Cosmetics