Novel active ingredients for skin care and scalp soother

Young woman with coloured curlers in brunette hair


Young woman with coloured curlers in brunette hair

Source: Photoagents

Clariant announces a novel active ingredient for fuelling the skin with youthful energy and a scalp pacifier for sensitive scalps that respects the microbiota. Launched recently, two new concentrated, sustainably sourced active ingredients obtained through advanced technological processes, offering scientifically proven efficacy for formulations.

Award-winning and sustainably-sourced ingredients

“Equi Scalp”, a microbiota-friendly scalp soother created from apple stem cells. And the skin cell recharger “Rootness Energize” that is obtained from special plant roots. This award-winning new active is the recipient of the BSB Innovation Prize Cosmetics 2020 Bronze Prize in the category skin benefits.

Alexandre Lapeyre, Global Head of Marketing, said: “While these new products are completely different, catering to very different needs, they share the fact that advanced technological processes make their sourcing more sustainable. We apply science to nature to create potent actives effective at addressing very specific beauty needs, each one underpinned by plant resources’ preservation, traceability, no exploitation of cultural land, and ecological cultivation. In doing so, we help cosmetic formulators support consumers’ requests for scientifically-proven and sustainably-sourced plant derived ingredients.”

Skin care formulations

The novel skin cell recharger offers real possibilities for skincare formulations to counteract skin cells’ waning bioenergy resources that coincide with aging and stress, and refuel cells with new energy to maintain their natural function and longevity. This ingredient is produced in a uniquely plant-respecting way from an extract of roots of aeroponically-grown Luffa cylindrica plant. Together with our partner PAT we stimulate and boost production of the rare active compound bryonolic acid, a potent anti-allergy, anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory molecule.

Visible results in volunteer trials

Using patented Plant Milking Technology, the accumulated molecules are then collected from roots without destroying the plant, with 100% traceability from the seed to the active.The resulting extract is 10 times more concentrated in bryonolic acid than would be found in traditional soil cultured roots. As a result, the nove ingredient reactivates the overall metabolic processes to increase energy production in cells, boosting their respiration and stimulating ATP production, to reshape the skin matrix structure. In turn, this ingredient visibly increases skin elasticity and reduces age-related lack of tonicity and firmness – appealing factors for products such as firming creams, skin elasticity boosters and revitalizing care products for well-aging skin care. Visible results of +20% firmness, +21% tonicity, +27% elasticity, were achieved in volunteer trials with a 1% ingredient-containing formulation and a placebo.

Hair care ingredient provides effective relief

Stem cell technology comes to the fore in this new active ingredient for increasingly in-demand soothing scalp and hair care products. The novel ingredient takes to task the uncomfortable tightness, extreme dryness, itchiness and redness reactions common to irritated, fragilized scalps, and provides effective relief. At the same time, it respects the scalp microbiota by maintaining the level of living bacteria and by preserving healthy and normal scalp bacteria population – important for protecting the scalp and avoiding new issues.

Ingredient harnessed from stem cells

The novel ingredient achieves its benefits thanks to a rich concentration of the flavonoid phloridizin which is harnessed from stem cells of the Fuji apple Malus domestica. The active molecules are produced in a more sustainable way, as only a small amount of fruit is required to initiate the culture of large amounts of stem cells.

Phloridizin’s recognized anti-inflammatory, anti-lipogenesis and barrier improvement activities enable the extract to successfully control inflammation and sebum overproduction, conditions which normally result from histamine increases activated by external environmental aggressions and stress levels. The ingredient limits the production of two important inflammatory mediators overstimulated in irritated scalp IL-1Ra and S100A8/9, and inhibits histamine release by mast cells to efficiently soothe scalp sensitivity. This leads to a decrease in the irritation reaction that causes itching sensations and redness. In addition, the ingredient reduces sebum production by sebocytes, reinforcing its soothing effect. As a result, scalp desquamation is limited, with less visible flakes, and the scalp barrier function is reinforced.

Significant success demonstrated

Clinical data from volunteers using the novel ingredient shows significant success in limiting scalp desquamation (flaking) by -20%, and a reduction in scalp sebum production of -20% compared to the placebo. It does so by reducing two irritation mediators -27% IL-1Ra and -46% S100A8/9, as demonstrated by innovative biological analysis performed on each volunteers’ scalp. There was a visible reduction of redness and more than 80% of the group experienced a noticeably increased feeling of comfort due to a decrease in scalp skin irritation. Applications ideally suited to the ingredient´s benefits include oily scalp treatments, sensitive scalp formula, and scalp itch erasers.

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