How emulsifier work in skin care

Young women with closed eyes holding a flower
Young women with closed eyes holding a flower

Source: Olgamaer –

Customers today are looking for simple yet effective and pleasurable textures. In the quest for efficacy and minimalism, the use of active emulsifier is a great option for formulators: both stability of the product and benefits on the consumer skin are brought by one single ingredient. “Montanov 202”, one of the 100% plant based, COSMOS and NATRUE approved O/W emulsifier by Seppic ticks all the boxes.

Understanding the mechanisms of action

Historically it is recognized that the emulisfier´s unique properties are mainly due to the presence of liquid crystals in the emulsions. This year, using the latest technologies, the company went further and conducted studies to understand the mechanism of action behind those skin benefits but also to demonstrate that these structures are robust.

First the emulsifier´s emulsion richness in liquid crystals was investigated to understand the impact of time, temperature, transport and formulation composition on the creation and the stability of  lamellar phases and lamellar bilayers. Extensive stability study mimicking extreme conditions, such as hot temperature and transportation, demonstrated that the emulsifier can easily create liquid crystals that are robust, thus guaranteeing stability and performance over time.

Skin barrier function is influenced

Second, a focus was made on skin improvement. Great similitudes were found between the emulsion and the stratum corneum lipids organizations. X-rays microdiffraction proved that the lamellar bilayer biomimetic structure in the emulsion strengthens the skin barrier function by gently inserting itself within the stratum corneum lipids lamellar structure. As a result, skin roughness is immediately reduced and skin moisturization is increased for up to five hours after application, in vivo demonstration by visualization imaging technology and corneometry measurement. The skin is visibly smoother.

Visit Seppic at the upcoming HPCI Central and Eastern Europe on 7-8 October 2020 in Warsaw, Poland,


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