Clariant launches a sustainably-sourced active ingredient for skincare

Young handsome caucasian man applying cream routine in the bathroom. Indoors, copy space.

 

Young handsome caucasian man applying cream routine in the bathroom. Indoors, copy space.

Source: Elena_AdobeStock

Clariant Active Ingredients launches “Prenylium” – the first product unveiled thanks to its new partnership with French biotechnology company, Plant Advanced Technologies (PAT). Rich in rare prenylated flavonoids content, this active ingredient is a unique Morus alba tree root extract, highly efficient at protecting the skin matrisome from degradation that occurs with time and UV exposure. It also helps prevent signs of aging by visibly reducing the appearance of existing wrinkles and smoothing skin.

Produced by eco-friendly process

This novel ingredient is produced by PAT’s patented “Plant Milking Technology”, which explores generally inaccessible plant parts – the roots – without killing the tree and allows to produce rare compounds at an industrial scale. The highly sustainable, 100% traceable and eco-friendly process focuses on an innovative aeroponic, soilless system that stimulates roots to produce targeted molecules in higher quantities than those found in their natural environment. Roots are cut and collected several times a year from the same plant to harvest the molecules without destroying the plant culture; the roots can regrow multiple times.

Higher biological efficacy

The active ingredient´s exceptional concentration of prenylated flavonoids – more than 2,000% higher than the content found in traditional Morus alba, white mulberry, root extracts – gives stronger power and performance. This class of bioactive compounds has a higher affinity with cellular membranes and better interaction with biological targets of interest when compared to the non-prenylated flavonoids more commonly present at a high level in nature. As a result, biological efficacy is higher.

The skin matrisome is the set of all genes coding for elements contributing to matrix integrity and skin physiology. The noves agent is proven in vitro to modulate expression of CCN1, a protein that increases with age, thereby helping to safeguard matrisome integrity. As a consequence, and thanks to the active’s unique composition, it rebalances the equilibrium between collagen synthesis and degradation.

PAT’s proprietary “Target Binding Technology” makes it possible to assess the interaction of prenylated flavonoids with collagenase, the enzyme inducing collagen damage. All the active compounds of the new ingredient were shown to inhibit the collagenase enzyme activity. Concentrating these specific polyphenols when compared to traditional mulberry root extracts is therefore interesting and essential to have a better efficacy.

Wrinkle reduction and improvement in smoothness

Strong results were seen at the clinical level. Quick and noticeable results were recorded in terms of reduction in the appearance of wrinkles, improvement in skin smoothness and plumping effect. A group of 22 females with wrinkles, aged from 45 to 70 years old, applied a product twice a day containing 1% of the novel active ingredient versus a placebo in a double-blind randomized study. Results were analysed after four and eight weeks of application.

Data demonstrated time-dependent wrinkle reduction, deepest wrinkles were reduced by -12.7% after 4 weeks and by -16.6% after 8 weeks. Data also revealed good improvements in smoothness, supporting skin youthfulness. Skin plumping improved by 13.4% after 8 weeks.

The ingredients´s  variety of benefits make it suitable for a wide range of applications, including anti-aging creams, plumping serums, dermal matrix prevention care, rejuvenation night creams, and smoothing products.

Relevant for skin care formulators

Alexandre Lapeyre, Head of Marketing, Clariant Active Ingredients, comments: “Prenylium’s role in maintaining key skin matrisome components and protecting them from alteration that would normally result over time and through UV exposure, makes it a particularly market-relevant active for skin care formulators keen to develop effective skincare solutions for the growing “well-aging” generation. The assurance of a traceable and responsible ingredient, achieved through a controlled culture environment and sustainable access to tree roots, is also fundamental to ensuring the beauty industry’s sustainable future. We are excited to kick-start our partnership with PAT with an active ingredient infused by roots’ uniqueness so that the tree growth cycle is protected, which really shows our commitment to Powered by Nature, Advanced with Science.”

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